Maria's Notes

Highlights of the Marvelous MacDuff Tour 2009, by Maria Spence

These are written from my notes, so may not be perfectly accurate.  I will skip many of the facts we learned because Elizabeth already has those in her blog.  Bob and I arrived a day early at the beautiful Beardmore Hotel in Clydebank, Glasgow, Scotland. (Bob’s Dad was born in Glasgow.)  Others arrived early as well, allowing us to get some sleep and not be so foggy on arrival day.  We ate dinner with the Warren & Kaye Kininmonth, Priscilla Schmitz, Kathy McClelland and Gary & Marguerite Ballard.

On Day1:  of the tour, we slept late, and hung around the lobby to greet arrivals – fun!  The Meet and Greet was at 6 p.m.  We were treated to a slide show by Elizabeth, demonstrating what we had ahead of us, with fantastic photography, followed by dinner together.  All tour members were present!  We all had name tags and met new and old friends.

 Day2:  We toured the amazing Falkirk Wheel – what a ride.  The tour guide was fantastic and had us all laughing.  She asked if anyone had a fear of heights, then said “Tough!”  She also told us to exit the ship on the land side, please, and if you are 5’6” or taller, and you fall in, don’t swim, just stand up and walk.   This wheel raises and lowers boats due to the difference in the levels of canals (Forth & Clyde and the Glasgow Union canal). The Archimedes Principle of water displacement is used.  We also saw the remains of the Antonine Wall (Roman).  The Falkirk Wheel has had three and a half million visitors since 2002.  Marguerite especially loves the seats on the boat.  We met our driver of the coach, Greg, who says that the Wheel is the 8^th Wonder of the World.

                    New expression: “How are ya then?”

                    Signs I saw:  “Queues likely” and “Reduce speed now”

Stirling Castle was next.  This is an amazing castle, and the tour was very historical, of course.  For me, watching the weavers working on the new tapestries for the palace was amazing.  We learned that women were not allowed in the kitchen.  Men and boys prepared the food.  The Bowling Green garden was beautiful.  It rained!  At dinner, we had a birthday party for Diane Evans..fun!

                    More expressions:  “Room to let”

                                                “Give way” (yield)

                                                “Take away” (carry-out)

                                                “Way out” (exit)

Day3:  On our way to Loch Lomond, we stopped in the little village of Luss, where Susan Boyle (the You-Tube fantastic singer’s home).  We used this as a photo-op of the beautiful Loch.  On the coach, we sang “My Bonnie” and “Loch Lomond”.  We toured the very lovely Inverary Castle, home of the Duke of Argyll.  The greenish stone was locally quarried.  At the head of the table in the dining room, the place card said “His Grace”.   The furnishings in this castle are beautiful, and include an amazing armory room with a 21 ft. ceiling, filled with axes, rifles with bayonets, claymores with hooks to pull the soldiers off their horses, used at Culloden.  We also saw Kilchurn Castle, a Campbell stronghold on Loch Awe.  Next, we toured Cruachan, an underground power station, built in the hollow mountain.  This power station uses the water from the loch, with reversible engines, and then puts it back, producing hydroelectric power.  We then drove to Oban, taking the ferry over to the Isle of Mull.

                        Expressions:  “mind the step” (be careful)

                                               “day out” ( holiday)

                                                    “food’s off”  (kitchen is closed”

                                               “stick it in until you stick it out” (eat until you can’t)

Following dinner we had our first ceilidh.  Many of our group danced the “Gay Gordons”, a waltz, sang our repertoire of songs, did the Hokey Pokey and the Virginia Reel.  Much fun was had with a great accordionist and violinist.

Day4:  On the Isle of Mull, on the way to the harbor at Fionnphort, we saw foxglove blooming, saw red deer, and a very rare osprey nest.  We practiced our hymns for the upcoming service.  There is lots of uninhabited land on this island.  We saw Ben More, the tallest “hill” in the mist, and drove on a one-track road.  We learned about crofting (small farms), saw blue bells, marsh cotton, bracken, bell heather, buttercups, marsh grass, and clover.  Rose bay willow is in bloom everywhere.  We rode another ferry from Fionnphort to the island of Iona, where we walked to the Abbey.  We learned the history; saw a 1200 year old Celtic cross.  This abbey was rebuilt in the 20^th century, preserving as much as possible the original materials.  This is the oldest chapel, begun in 1503.  Macbeth’s grandson, King Luic is buried here.  We heard the story of St. Columba.  We had a wonderful chapel service, and sang hymns, prayed for Larry MacDuff and Jane Robitaille, as well as all deceased members of former MacDuff tour travelers.  Following the service, the bench for Larry MacDuff was blessed, as will all those who sit on the bench in the future.  There was a wedding at the abbey while we visited, led by a bagpiper.  We found a carved stone plaque in the nunnery which included the names Spence and Jarvie.  The wedding party was given preference on boarding the ferry to return to Mull, so some members of our group had to wait for the next ferry.   Next we toured Duart Castle, and our tour guide was Sir Lachlan MacLean, chief of the MacLean Clan himself.  We viewed the castle, the dungeons, family pictures, etc.  The group posed for a photo with Sir Lachlan.  We saw hairy coos (highland cows) today.

Day5:  After returning to the mainland, on our travels today we passed Stalker Castle, a beautiful site which looks like the castle is on an island, but is really a peninsula on Loch Lynhe.  (Bob’s mother was a Stalker.)  Next we visited Glencoe (an old volcano) with an excellent video presentation, followed by a demonstration by two Scots who dressed a young man in an old style kilt, and explained its many uses.  They also demonstrated the weapons used.

                    New expressions:  “a wee bit”  (in a little while)

                                              “No footway”  ( no sidewalk)

                                              “jumper”   ( a sweater or fleece)

We arrived at Bannockburn in the rain.   Some of our members hiked the hills anyway.  In 1314, 10,000 soldiers died here.  The movie explained how it all happened.  The Scots won even though they were seriously outnumbered.  They were then on their way to beat the English off Scottish soil.  Robert the Bruce became a hero in this battle, born 1274, died 1329 after becoming King Robert, the First.

Day6:  We are at the New Lanark Mill House Hotel.  Our room overlooks the rapids in the River Clyde—we can hear the water!  We are learning about Robert Burns, listened to a CD about his life.  We arrived in Mauchline (pronounced Mocklin).  We toured the museum housed in the house where Burns lived with Jean Armour.  Saw an excellent DVD in the museum.  We also visited Poosie Nansies, a hostelry where Burns went to drink with his friends.  We learned that Jean Armour started the homes for poor ladies, which was a major new idea for the times.  We saw the Bachelor’s Club, one of Burns’ favorite hang-outs.  Next, we visited the “Tam O”Shanter Experience”, as in  Burns’ most famous poem.  We viewed a video of the whole story. Tam means hat, and shanter is the pipe of a bagpipe.  We saw the bridge over the Doon River, used in Brigadoon, and Burns’ birthplace cottage in Alloway.  In the cottage, we saw the bed he was born in, the animals’ room, the gardens and a film about his parents.  That evening we were treated to a Nosing and Tasting of whisky by Steve Oliver.  Enjoyed by all, and we learned a lot!

Day 7:  Today we toured the Lanark Mill itself.  We learned about David Dale who had the brilliant idea to use the falls of the Clyde for power in 1784.  They built a bypass of the river, used wheels 28 feet high, which gave 70 horsepower, 10 wheels in all.  In 1850, they began to use steam power, then gas power, then in 1900 hydroelectric power.  We saw the homes of the workers, learned about the education and decent food provided, more reasonable hours, and the use of the silent monitor, rather than beatings.  Robert Owen became the manager of the mill and his ideas were even more forward thinking.  “The Great Experiment” included sanitation, education, and the first cooperative nursery for working mothers in the world.  A plant in the window was a reward for a clean house.  Owen fought for equal rights for women and men, poor and rich, and he is known as the father of the Trade Union Movement.  We rode in cars, as in an amusement ride, to take the “Annie MacLeod Experience”, the story of a girl worker as though she were a ghost. We toured the roof garden.  Very worthwhile tour!  In the afternoon, we toured the Burrell Collection and the Pollok House, or Kelvingrove Gallery.  Both have unbelievable art works, tapestries and furniture.  Many famous pieces were away on loan at this time, but we did see the original “The Thinker” by Rodin and “The Dancers” by Degas.  Amazing sculpture everywhere.

     The evening’s entertainment was an accordion player who demonstrated how to put on and wear an old-style plaid.  We also participated in dancing again.

Day 8:  Today we visited the farm “Ellisland” where Burns attempted to make a living farming.  While plowing, he disturbed a mouse nest, thus his idea for “To a Mouse”.  The old farm implements are still there, and the parlor was referred to as the spenc.  We saw an excellent short video here.  We learned that stone walls are called stene dykes, and that guttle for trout means going into the water to try to catch a fish.  After three years, Burns realized that farming was a failure and became an excise man, earning 10 pounds a year.  Many of his original writings were written here, specifically “Tam O’Shanter” and “Auld Lang Syne”.    Burns moved to Dumfries, worked as an excise man, collecting taxes from a large area.  Having suffered from rheumatic fever, he had a weak heart and died at age 37. 

     We traveled to Kirkcudbright next (kir cood bree), visited the Stewarty Museum and MacClelland Castle and had some shopping time. 

     Next was the birthplace of John Paul Jones of “I have not yet begun to fight”.  He is known as the hero of the U.S. Navy.  His family had a nice cottage, as his father was head gardener for the estate next door.  John Paul’s mother was Jean Duff, who died in 1780.  We saw golfers on the edge of the sea today, golfing right next to cows and sheep. We went on to Sweetheart Abbey, where, of interest to us we found a family picture of John Spence and Elizabeth Walker who became engaged in the abbey.  This is a beautiful abbey, obviously a real showplace in its day.  We stayed tonight at the Station Hotel, Dumfries.

Day 9:  Today, we visited Gretna Green, where Bob and I were “married” by a smithy.  Sandy Rinick was the hysterical mother and Gary Ballard the opposing father with shotgun!  Great shopping here!  On to Caerlaverock Castle.  This is an amazing castle – the first time ever for us to see a castle with a moat (except in a movie).  We also visited Burns House and Mausoleum, and then the evening was the Burns Night at Globe Inn.  We ate the traditional meal: lentil soup, haggis, turnips, etc.  Greg paraded with the haggis, read the poem, and the manager of the Globe regaled us with stories and poems.  We sang all of our repertoire of Burns’ songs.  What a fantastic event.

                              “Spot on” means perfect

                              “vennel” is an alleyway

                              Sign:  Mind your head!

                                       “Light up here, and you may be 50 pounds lighter”.

Day 10:  Bob Spence, Davie Cottrell and Kathy McClelland left early for Edinburgh and the Parliament building to represent Clan MacDuff and Clan McClelland at the welcoming of the Clan Chiefs.  Several professors talked to them in the chambers (like our Senate) and the head of chiefs in the US spoke.  Guests were from USA, NZ, Canada, and Australia.  Discussion groups were held, and they had a real fire drill!  The coach took the rest of us to Melrose, where Robert the Bruce’s heart is buried.  The sculpture in this abbey is magnificent, including the famous pig playing the bagpipe.  Cromwell destroyed this abbey, but much remains there to see.  Next, we visited Abbotsford, the home of Sir Walter Scott, the famous writer, who is considered the writer responsible for the birth of novel reading.  He also is the man who convinced the Scots and the King to wear tartan.  Our guide here was very enthusiastic about his homeland!  Next stop was Rosslyn Chapel, known for the Holy Grail hunt in the DaVinci Code film.  This chapel is under serious repair, so scaffolding prevented us seeing much of the architecture, but the sculptures in the chapel are marvelous.  Robbie Burns visited here frequently.  I could go on and on about this chapel.  The guide was excellent and talked to us for 30 minutes.

                              “fold” is a small circular stone wall to hold sheep

Day 11:  Today we went to The Gathering. The newspaper said that 47,000 attended.  Since we had golden passports, there was no waiting in line for us.  We found seats in the bleachers right away, watched the athletics, the massed bands, Prince Charles and Camilla welcomed us all, visited the Clan tent – met lots of Spences!  While eating lunch, a man gave Bob his Homecoming 2009 pin. This was very generous of him, and typical of Scots.  The tents of crafts and foods were wonderful.  Blaine hiked to the top of the crag.  In the evening we all met at the South Gate of Holyrood to march.  We did march up to Edinburgh Castle, with 12,000 of us and 120 clans!  There was lots of cheering from the huge crowd.  This was a thrill.  We watched the pageant “Aisling’s Children” in excellent seats facing the door of the castle.  The choreography was so creative, and the story really hit home about the diaspora (group migration). and now the returning home to their homeland.  It ended with massed pipe bands, of course!  Very moving.  Arrived at the hotel at 1 a.m.

Day 12:  We drove to East Weymss today to the remains of MacDuff Castle.  We toured in the rain and loved it. Blaine told me that the castle has a wall 70 paces from the center of the keep to the outer defenses, and most likely there was another wall the other way.   We also held the AGM on the coach. We all feel that somehow we need to donate money toward some upkeep around the castle remains.   We had a Sunday service on the coach, with a message by Blaine Dunn.  On the return trip, when the clouds lifted, we could see Edinburgh across the Firth.  Afternoon activities included The Gathering, the Rosslyn Chapel, the National Museum, and resting.

***** What an amazing and unforgettable trip!  We are so happy to have made so many new and wonderful friends. The most exciting thing we learned was that the MacDuff Clan is the oldest clan in Scotland.  (Note below who went with us and where they are from.)

Thank you Elizabeth! *****

Chris & Randy Allen (VA) (mother & son)

Meredith Briscolino (VA) (sister to Chris- Duff maiden names)

Gary & Marguerite Ballard (TX) Southwest Convener

Richard & Barbara Cooper (IN) Clan Vice-Convener

Davie Cottrell & Sandy Rinick (VA) Clan Treasurer

David & Barbara Duff (AL)

Dave & Tyler Duff (MS) (son & grandson of David/Barbara above)

Cory Hancock (GA) (another grandson)

Alan & Rachel Jarvie ((VA) (daughter & son-in-law of David/Barbra)

Blain & Joy Dunn (VA) (Joy Spence-Dunn - Bob’s cousin)

Kerry Fyffe-Rounsevell (Elgin, Scotland) (has been on all the clan trips)

Pat & Mary Alyce Hall (TX) (friends of Kininmonths)

Warren & Kaye Kininmonth (TX) (former Clan Convener)

Pricilla Schmitz (TX) (sister-in-law of Kininmonths)

Kathy Ann McClelland, (TX) (dual clan member)

Bob & Helen McKinlay (OH & FL) (Bob recruited the two below)

Ruth McKinley (GA) & Lisa Beth MacKinlay (NY) (cousins)

Carol (Duff) Pring (IL) & Diane Evans (TN) (mother & daughter)

Donnie & Gale Shearer (TN) Upper South Convener

Bob & Maria Spence (FL) Deep South Convener

Lori Wear (CA)

Elizabeth Kininmonth Oliver & Lynda Graves (Scotland)

Bob and Maria being married over the anvil

With the Piper after the wedding